First and foremost, let us discuss Velcro Terminology.
LOOP velcro refers to the soft, cloth fiber velcro,
HOOK velcro refers to the rough, plastic velcro.
Sticky-back velcro refers to velcro with an adhesive backing,
Sew-on velcro refers to velcro with no adhesive backing that you need to sew down to secure it to clothing or elastic straps.
TIP: You will want to place the softer LOOP velcro on any surface (or item) that will face your body as you wear the costume. Doing this can protect your clothes from getting caught on the HOOK velcro, which would rough up the fibers in your clothes. This is just a tip, not a mandate.
You'll want to sew up your elastic straps for the elbows, biceps, shoulder pads, knee caps and sides of the chest.
Each set of straps will be a different length I recommend using a cloth tape measure to accurately measure the length needed. We sewed the HOOK velcro to all the elastic bands, just like we talked about above, so the HOOK material will not snag the cloth undersuit.
While we are on the subject of sewing, you might want to sew up a velcro "T-strap" system for the shoulder and chest collar connection points. This T-strap consists of two strips of sew-on HOOK velcro sewn together to form the shape of a "T". This T- will connect the collar area of the chest and back armor while also holding the shoulder bell and the bicep armor in place. a very nice and useful system.
Chest and Back
The sides of the chest and back are connected via a White 1.5 inch wide elastic band. The length of the elastic bands will be determined by the individual wearers chest size. You should pre-measure before cutting the elastic.
Using a razor blade, you need to cut the holes out. Keep the holes at least 3/4 of an inch away from the edge of the armor. You do have the option not to cut the area out, but It does not look as good if you do not.
Attach sticky velcro at the shoulder joints and just under the arm area of the back and chest. You can adjust the tension of the elastic straps by moving the sticky velcro closer/farther from the center of the armor .
Connect the chest and back at the shoulder area via a T-strap harness system. This system will connect he chest and back together and also the shoulder pads and the bicep armor. This system is excellent for keeping everything together. The straps are 2 inches wide for maximium velcro gripping.
You need to place a 2x4 inch wide strip of sticky-back velcro on the inside top area of each shoulder pad.
Place two 2x2 pieces of Sticky-back velcro on the wall edges o the armor. Pre-measured elastic straps with sewn-on velcro tabs will be placed on these tabs.
Place one 2x2 and two 2x2 strips of sticky-back LOOP velcro on the inside of the armor next to the holes. The middle velcro will allow the t-strap harness to grip the upper 2x2 piece of velcro and the armband elastic to grip the 2x4 section of velcro.
Place one 2X4 strip of sticky back velcro on the insides of the elbows, directly in between the strap holes.
Thread the elastic bands though the holes and connect the velcro to velcro areas. Adjust for proper fit, if need be.
Measure out your 2 inch wide belt to fit your waist. Add 6 inches to the final length for connecting the 2 inch wide quick clip.
Place the belt on the user and slide the quick clip to the back. I suggest off setting the quick clip to one side by 4 inches so that it will be hidden by the thermal detonator , yet still be covered by the thermal detonator ribbed tube.
Mark the center position of where the Utility Belt Buckle should fit on the user.
Now drill/rivet the ends of the plastic utility boxes to the cloth belt. I suggest using two rivets per side of the belt, as there will be alot of tension on this area, but using ONE RIVET per side is "screen-accurate".
Now add the thigh boxes. :-)
You will need to attach the loose end of the 1.5 inch web belts to the 2 inch wide web belt, right where the thermal detonator will go, in the back of the 2 inch web belt. You can sew or rivet the smaller webbing to the wider belt.
The ILM costume had two more quick clips in back of the costume on the 1.5 inch wide web belts, just like in the front. This tutorial does not show the assembly of those two quick clips in the back. Sorry.
For the thermal detonator you will need to drill two holes in the top of the thermal detonator box, inside the recessed area. . These holes will allow you to thread a black ZIP-TIE through the plastic and around the ribbed thermal detonator pipe, therefore securing the pipe to the box.
Attach the thermal detonator to the belt via military "Alice" clips, Zip-Ties, or any cool method you can think of. Currently stainless steel "Money Belt" clips have been identified by the Biker Scout community as some of the more accurate looking clasps to use for a more accurate scout costume.
Notice in this reference picture that ILM connected the 2 inch wide webbelt together with "Veclro".
IF you have any suggestions for a better way to accurately attach the Thermal Det to the webbelt, and still get the web belt off the costume, please email us that suggestion. We would love to talk to other fans about possible ways of assembling the Scout belt more accurately.
Putting the Costume On
The images below show the proper steps in putting on the Scout Trooper costume. Some parts just have to be donned before other parts, it's a simple factor of ergonomics.
-end assembly instructions
Did we forget anything? If so please Contact Us and tell us. Thanks.
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